Every July, Pamplona transforms into a whirlwind of music and dancing during the San Fermín fiestas, and at the heart of it all are the peñas. Peñas are the city's large social groups that members pay an annual fee to join, and they often center around a shared interest or background, such as a shared neighborhood or political affiliation. These local social clubs - which are each led by their own personal brass band - are the lifeblood of the festivities, turning the city into a 24/7 party that you have to experience to believe. If you’re still not sure what a peña is, think of it as a mix between a tight-knit friend group, a brass band, and a never-ending, improvised parade.
During the San Fermín fiestas, the peñas take to the streets decked out in their signature colors and logos (such as green or checkered blue scarves and sashes instead of the traditional red scarves and sashes), carrying banners that range from artistic masterpieces to hilariously crude jokes. They march through Pamplona in massive groups, led by their brass bands blasting everything from local originals to improvised renditions of pop songs. These bands know how to keep the energy up—once the music starts at noon on July 6th, it does not stop. You’ll find yourself humming along whether you know the words or not.
Most members have been part of their peña for years—some for generations. They gather during the fiesta to share food, wine, and laughter, and this aspect of Los sanfermines is just as much a part of the tradition as the running of the bulls for local members of peñas. If you hang around a peña long enough, you’ll probably be invited to join in a conga line or share a glass of kalimotxo (a magical mix of red wine and cola). Pro tip: don’t say no.
Every evening, each of the different peñas takes over one of the Sol (sun) sections of the bullring. Their bands blast music throughout the fight - at times in competition with bands from other sections - and the rest of the crowd joins in the fun by dancing, singing, and tossing around whatever they can get their hands on (including sangria and, occasionally, other people). It’s messy, it’s loud, and it’s glorious.
The peñas truly embody the spirit of the San Fermín festival. They’re not about perfection or polished performances—they’re about raw, unfiltered joy. You don’t need to know the songs or the dances; just jump in, clap along, and let the crowd sweep you up. Whether you’re a local or a wide-eyed visitor, the peñas make you feel like you’re part of something bigger—a collective celebration of life, friendship, and absolute chaos.
So, if you find yourself in Pamplona during San Fermín, follow the music. You’ll stumble across a peña sooner or later, and if you allow yourself to let go and join in the fun, you’ll never forget it.